The present invention generally relates to the use of isoparaffin solvents with silicone suffactants in the preparation of a clear gel antiperspirant or other cosmetic cream compositions. In particular, the present invention is directed to the replacement of 1 to 75%, preferably 25 to 50%, of the silicone solvent used in water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic compositions with an isoparaffin solvent. In particular, the present invention is directed to a liquid or semi-solid (for example, a gel or cream) cosmetic composition containing at least one active cosmetic material (e.g., deodorant active materials, antiperspirant active materials, sunscreen materials, insect repellents and anti-fungal agents), which leaves substantially no visible residue on the skin and which has good cosmetic properties.
Antiperspirant and deodorant products are well-known in the cosmetic art. They are generally used by rubbing an area of the body such as the underarm to apply a layer of the composition to the skin which reduces odor and/or perspiration. It is desirable that such products have aesthetic characteristics of non-crumbling, smoothness, non-oiliness and non-tackiness. Clarity of such products is a long-sought desirable aesthetic characteristic. Another desirable characteristic is that no readily visible residue as, e.g., a white layer, be left on the skin after the deodorant or antiperspirant is applied.
Antiperspirant and deodorant products have appeared in the marketplace in various dosage forms, such as sticks, gels, roll-ons, aerosols and creams. Generally, these dosage forms include a solution of the active ingredient in a suitable solvent, a suspension of the active ingredient in a non-solvent, or a multiphase dispersion or emulsion in which a solution of the active ingredient is dispersed in some continuous phase or in which the solubilized active ingredient constitutes the continuous phase.
The stick form has become the dominant antiperspirant dosage form in the United States market, constituting more than 50% of total antiperspirant sales, and is popular to varying degrees globally. Cosmetically acceptable antiperspirant sticks typically consist of a suspension of spray-dried active antiperspirant material in vehicles such as cyclomethicone, with a waxy substance such as stearyl alcohol, alone or in combination with castor wax, gelling or thickening the suspension sufficiently to create a suitable stick.
The stick form can be distinguished from a gel or a paste in that in a stick, the formulated product can maintain its shape for extended time periods outside the package, the product not losing its shape significantly (allowing for some shrinkage due to solvent evaporation).
The hard stick dosage form, although widely accepted by the consumer, suffers from leaving a white residue on skin after application, and can cause staining of fabric, which is considered to be undesirable, particularly by female consumers. The gel dosage form can be formulated to reduce and/or eliminate the white residue.
One such clear gel antiperspirant is set forth in International Patent Application No. WO 92/05767, published on Apr. 16, 1992 (The Gillette Company), which is incorporated herein by reference. This patent application pertains generally to a clear gel-type cosmetic product which includes an emulsion with an oil phase and a water phase that includes an incorporated active ingredient. The oil phase preferably makes up about 10 to 25% of the product and includes an emulsifier which when properly mixed with the water phase components yields a water-in-oil emulsion. The oil phase is typically a blend of liquids and includes a polyorganosiloxane (e.g., dimethicone) and a silicone emulsifying agent. A particularly suitable emulsifying agent is a polyether substituted silicone of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol. This emulsifier is useful for preparing stable water-in-oil silicone emulsions where silicone makes up a large portion of the oil phase, and is a dispersion of a silicone surfactant (i.e., dimethicone copolyol), i.e., 10% silicone surfactant in cyclomethicone (i.e., a silicone solvent). The water phase includes one or more polar species such as water, propylene glycol, sorbitol and ethanol. The water phase includes, in solution, a deodorant and/or antiperspirant active ingredient such a triclosan, benzethonium chloride and/or an astringent salt of aluminum or zirconium, such as aluminum chlorohydrate or aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-glycine. The gel can also contain additional cosmetic ingredients such as emollients, colorants, fragrances, and preservatives.
Some examples of conventional gel antiperspirants and deodorants are set forth below:
International Patent Application No. WO 97/06777, which is incorporated herein by reference, also discloses a clear cosmetic gel composition which includes: (1) an aqueous phase containing water and at least one cosmetically active ingredient, (2) an oil phase containing a high refractive index material, (3) at least one coupling agent to bring the aqueous phase and the oil phase into a homogeneous composition, and (4) an alkoxylated, alkyl substituted siloxane surface active agent in an amount sufficient to form the composition into a water-in-oil emulsion. The oil phase includes a volatile silicone fluid, a non-volatile silicone fluid and an emollient. The emollient is preferably phenyl trimethicone.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,900,542 (Parrotta, Jr., et al.), which issued on Feb. 13, 1990 and which is incorporated herein by reference, discloses a process for preparing uniform, clear, microcrystalline emulsion antiperspirant compositions of gel-like consistency comprising: mixing the antiperspirant active material with water, charging the aqueous phase into an oil-alcohol phase containing a volatile silicone, a silicone emulsifier, a non-volatile emollient and a coupling agent, heating the resultant mixture with agitation until a uniform mixture is obtained, homogenizing the mixture and passing the homogenized mixture to a holding tank or directly to a filter.
The clear gel antiperspirants and deodorants described above are based on water-in-oil emulsions which are stabilized with a silicone surfactant. The silicone surfactant is commercially available as a 10 wt. % solution in a volatile silicone solvent, such as cyclomethicone (also known as decamethycyclopentasiloxane and/or octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane). The present inventors have unexpectedly discovered that by diluting a concentrated version of the silicone surfactant with an isoparaffin solvent, clear gel antiperspirants or deodorants can be formed having the same appearance (i.e., clarity and viscosity) at substantially lower cost and at higher indices of refraction.
Furthermore, the present inventors have discovered that viscous, non-volatile silicone fluids, e.g., dimethicone, can be partially replaced with isoparaffins and maintain the viscosity of the gel""s oil phase, while also reducing the cost of the overall composition.
The present invention also provides many additional advantages which shall become apparent as described below.
A clear cosmetic gel composition comprising: (a) an aqueous phase comprising: (i) water, and (ii) at least one cosmetically active ingredient; (b) a coupling agent; (c) an oil phase comprising: (i) a silicone-containing solvent, and (ii) an isoparaffin solvent having a boiling range between about 100 to 340xc2x0 C., wherein the isoparaffin constitutes between about 1 to 75% by weight, of the total of the oil phase; and (d) silicone-containing surfactant.
The silicone-containing surfactant is preferably an alkoxylated, alkyl substituted siloxane surface active agent, e.g., dimethicone copolyol or a mixture of dimethicone copolyol and cyclomethicone. This silicone-containing surfactant is present in an amount between about 0.2 to 2% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. The coupling agent is present in an amount between about 10 to 30% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase comprises water in an amount between about 20 to 70% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. The oil phase comprises a silicone-containing solvent which includes a volatile silicone fluid and a non-volatile silicone fluid. The volatile silicone fluid is preferably a cyclomethicone and the non-volatile silicone fluid is preferably dimethicone. The preferred mixture of the oil phase and the silicone-containing surfactant comprises between about 10 to 30% by weight, of the total weight of the composition, and the mixture of the aqueous phase and the coupling agent comprises between about 70 to 90% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
Optionally, the isoparaffin can replace at least a portion of the dimethicone such that the oil phase has essentially the same viscosity as the original oil phase. The molecular weight of the dimethicone may need to be simultaneously increased to achieve this viscosity.
By isoparaffin is meant a saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon whose molecules have at least one carbon atom bonded to at least three other carbon atoms or at least one side chain (i.e., a molecule having one or more tertiary or quaternary carbon atoms), and preferably wherein the total number of carbon atoms per molecule is in the range between about 8 to 20, more preferably 10 to 20. Various isomers of each carbon number will typically be present in the solvent. The isoparaffins may also include cycloparaffins with branched side chains, generally as a minor component of the isoparaffin solvent. The isoparaffin solvent may contain molecules have a carbon number (e.g., a narrow cut such as isomers having a range between about C10 to C12, or a wide cut such as isomers having between about C11 to C18). The vapor pressure of the isoparaffin is also preferably not greater than 2 mm Hg at 20xc2x0 C. for antiperspirant and deodorant products. Preferably, the isoparaffin constitutes between about 25 to 50% by weight, of the total of the oil phase.
The clear cosmetic gel composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one additional additive selected from the group consisting of: emollients, humectants, antiseptics, antioxidants, chelating agents, ultraviolet absorbers, colorants, fragrances and preservatives. This composition is preferably either a deodorant, antiperspirant, sunscreen, insect repellent or anti-fungal agent.
The present invention also pertains to a process for preparing a clear cosmetic gel composition comprising mixing the following: an aqueous phase comprising: (i) water, and (ii) at least one cosmetically active ingredient; a coupling agent; an oil phase comprising: (i) a silicone-containing solvent, and (ii) an isoparaffin solvent having a boiling range between about 100 to 340xc2x0 C., wherein the isoparaffin constitutes between about 1 to 75% by weight, of the total of the oil phase; and silicone-containing surfactant.
Another embodiment of the present invention includes a clear cosmetic gel composition comprising: (a) an aqueous phase comprising: (i) water, and (ii) at least one cosmetically active ingredient; (b) a coupling agent; (c) an oil phase comprising: a silicone-containing solvent comprising a volatile silicone fluid and a non-volatile silicone fluid, and wherein at least a portion of the non-volatile silicone fluid is replaced with an isoparaffin solvent having a boiling range between about 200 to 340xc2x0 C., wherein the viscosity of the non-volatile silicone/isoparaffin solution is in the range between about 10 to 100 cps at a temperature between about 20 to 25xc2x0 C.; and (d) silicone-containing surfactant. Preferably, the volatile silicone fluid is cyclomethicone and the non-volatile silicone fluid is dimethicone. Optionally, the isoparaffin has a flash point in the range between about 60 to 150xc2x0 C. and the non-volatile silicone fluid has a viscosity of no greater than 10,000 cSt.
Other and further objects, advantages and features of the present invention will be understood by reference to the following specification in conjunction with the annexed drawings, wherein like parts have been given like numbers.
The following C8 to C20 isoparaffins are useful as solvent extenders in the present application. Table 1 below sets forth a series of commercially available isoparaffin solvents and their associated physical properties which can be used in this case.
Throughout the present disclosure, the present invention is described primarily in connection with a clear soft gel antiperspirant composition. However, the present invention is not limited to soft gel compositions or to antiperspirant compositions. For example, compositions according to the present invention can be clear deodorant compositions. Moreover, depending on additional or other active ingredients included in the composition, the composition can also be an emollient composition, an analgesic (methyl salicylate) composition, a sunscreen composition, etc. Various active materials incorporated in cosmetic compositions are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,322,400 to Yuhas, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
Throughout the present specification, xe2x80x9cactive antiperspirantxe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cactive deodorantxe2x80x9d materials are discussed. Both types of materials contribute to reduction of body malodor. By reduction of body malodor, we mean that, generally, there is less body malodor after application of a composition to the person""s skin as compared to the person""s body malodor without application of the composition. Such reduction can be due to a masking of the malodor, absorption and/or chemical reaction of the malodorous material, reduction of levels of the bacteria producing the malodorous material, e.g., from perspiration, reduction of perspiration, etc. The antiperspirant active materials, when utilized in an antiperspirant effective amount in the composition, act to reduce body malodor by reducing production of perspiration; however, these antiperspirant active materials can also have a deodorant function, e.g., as an antimicrobial agent. The deodorant active materials do not substantially reduce the production of perspiration, but reduce malodor in other ways, e.g., as fragrances masking the malodor or reducing the malodor intensity, as odor absorbents, as antimicrobial agents, as agents chemically reacted with malodorous materials, etc.
A desired feature of the present invention is that a clear, or transparent, cosmetic gel composition (e.g., clear or transparent deodorant or antiperspirant gel composition) can be provided. The term clear or transparent (that is clarity), according to the present invention, is intended to connote its usual dictionary definition; thus, a clear, e.g., cosmetic gel composition at the present invention allows ready viewing of objects behind it. By contrast, a translucent composition allows light to pass through, but causes the light to be so scattered that it will be impossible to see clearly objects behind the translucent composition.
The present invention contemplates a clear cosmetic gel composition which is a water-in-oil emulsion. The aqueous phase of this emulsion contains water and at least one cosmetically active ingredient, with the cosmetically active ingredient being in the composition in an amount so as to have a cosmetic effect. The oil phase of the emulsion includes a high refractive index material (a material having a refractive index in the range of 1.40-1.50) and desirably also includes silicone surfactants, and preferably contains both volatile and non-volatile silicone solvents. Optionally, the compositions according to the present invention also include at least one coupling agent to bring the aqueous phase and the oil phase into a homogeneous composition. Moreover, the clear cosmetic gel composition of the present invention, which is in the form of a macro-emulsion as contrasted to a micro-emulsion, does not need to contain wax or gelling agents such as soaps, cellulosic materials or algenites.
The gel emulsions according to the present invention are stable and optically clear, are cosmetically elegant, and are capable of being delivered from a suitable applicator package. They are easily applied to the skin and have a smooth, silky feel and a cool sensation, yet are fast-drying and non-tacky. These compositions of the present invention may be prepared by a batch process, or a continuous or semi-continuous process, and the processes yield compositions which are stable, highly efficacious and possess excellent aesthetic qualities.
Where the composition is an antiperspirant gel composition, any of the known antiperspirant active materials can be utilized in the composition at the present invention. Suitable materials which may be mentioned by way of example include aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chloride, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum-zirconium hydroxychlorides, complexes or adducts of the above-mentioned active ingredients with glycol, such as propylene glycol, and combinations thereof. Known aluminum-zirconium salts in combination with neutral amino acids, such as glycine (e.g., aluminum-zirconium tetrachlorohydroxy) can also be used. Generally, any of the Category I active antiperspirant ingredients, listed in the Food and Drug Administration""s Monograph on Antiperspirant Drug Products for overall-the-counter human use (Oct. 10, 1973) can be used. In addition, any new ingredient, not listed in the Monograph, such as aluminum nitrohydrate and its combination with zirconyl hydroxychlorides and nitrates, or aluminum-stannous chlorohydrates, can be incorporated as an antiperspirant active ingredient in antiperspirant compositions according to the present invention.
The preferred antiperspirant materials include aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate and aluminum chlorohydrate.
The amount of active component that can be used will vary with the particular active ingredient incorporated. As a general rule, an antiperspirant product should contain an active antiperspirant material in an amount anywhere from about 10% to about 35% by weight, of the total weight of the composition, more preferably from about 20% to about 30% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. The active antiperspirant material utilized in the compositions of the present invention can be pre-dissolved in water or in another solvent (for example, in propylene glycol) or can be in powdered form, and may be buffered or unbuffered. Preferably, the antiperspirant materials are present in solution in a solvent therefor.
Where a deodorant active material is utilized, any deodorant active material which can be dissolved in the aqueous phase can be utilized. Illustratively, the deodorant active material can be 2,4,4xe2x80x2-trichloro-2xe2x80x2-hydroxy diphenyl ether (triclosan), and/or benzethonium chloride. Where the deodorant ingredient is used in place of the antiperspirant active ingredient, a deodorant gel composition (rather than an antiperspirant gel composition) would be provided.
Amounts of cosmetically active ingredients incorporated are those sufficient to have a cosmetic effect. For example, where a deodorant active ingredient such as triclosan is incorporated, amounts thereof as conventionally used in the art can be incorporated in the composition according to the present invention.
The aqueous phase includes one or a combination of various polar species, and includes at least water (refractive index of 1.3333). Other polar species include polyhydric alcohols and derivatives thereof (e.g., esters and ethers thereof). Illustratively, water can be included in the composition in an amount in the range of 20% to 70% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
At least one coupling agent is included in the composition of the present invention. Such coupling agent is illustratively (but not limited to) the following:
This coupling agent acts to stabilize the emulsion and also acts as a clarifying agent. Moreover, various of these coupling agents, such as SD-40 alcohol, aid in drying and has a cooling effect, providing advantageous aesthetic properties for the composition.
The coupling agent is preferably a low molecular weight alcohol such as, but not limited to, an alcohol having from about 2 to about 10 carbon atoms, preferably from about 2 to about 4 carbon atoms; or a glycol such as, but not limited to, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, isoprene glycol and dipropylene glycol; glycerine, sorbitol and/or propylene carbonate. The coupling agent can be one compound or a mixture of compounds.
Illustratively, the coupling agent is present in an amount of from about 10% to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 14% to about 25% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
The oil phase according to the present invention is desirably, a silicone oil/isoparaffin solution, so as to provide a water-in-oil emulsion. The total of oil phase and siloxane surface active agent preferably makes up from about 8% to about 30% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. This surface active agent is an emulsifier which, when properly mixed with the aqueous phase components, oil phase components and coupling agents, yields a water-in-oil emulsion. The oil phase is desirably a blend of liquids.
The oil phase can include, illustratively, a volatile silicone solvent such as cyclomethicone and a non-volatile silicone fluid such as dimethicone; however, the composition of the present invention need not include both the volatile and non-volatile silicone fluids. Where the composition includes the volatile silicone it is preferred that such volatile silicone be a polydimethylcyclosiloxane, present in an amount up to about 18% by weight, of the total weight of the composition, preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. Preferred polydimethylcyclosiloxanes are those named cyclomethicones. Preferred cyclosiloxanes are octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and blends of tetramer and pentamer cyclomethicones. Commercial cyclosiloxanes which can be utilized as part of the composition of the present invention include, illustratively Dow Corning 244 Fluid, Dow Corning 245 Fluid, Dow Corning 344 Fluid and Dow Corning 345 Fluid (from Dow Corning Corp.), and SF1202, SF1204 and SF1173 (from General Electric Company).
The oil phase preferably is a mixture of a volatile silicone fluid (such as cyclomethicone), a non-volatile silicone fluid (such as dimethicone), and an isoparaffin. The relatively higher indices of refraction (i.e., 1.402-1.450) of the isoparaffin of the present invention relative to cyclomethicone and dimethicone may permit a reduction or elimination of very expensive high index of refraction silicone oils such as phenyl trimethicone.
The alkoxylated, alkyl substituted siloxane surface active agent is preferably, but not limited to, a dimethicone copolyol. An illustrative alkoxylated silicone-containing surfactant utilizable according to the present invention is cetyl dimethicone copolyol referred to in U.S. Pat. No. 5,162,378 to Guthauser. Illustratively, the alkoxylated, alkyl substituted siloxane surface active agent is included in the composition in an amount of 0.2% to 2% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
A specific cyclomethicone-dimethicone copolyol fluid which can be utilized to provide the alkoxylated silicone containing surface active agent is a mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol designated as DC3225C from Dow Corning Corp or SF1328 from General Electric Company. This is a polyether substituted silicone of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol (refractive index (RI)=1.3994). This DC3225C, which is an emulsifying agent, is useful for preparing stable water-in-oil emulsions where a silicone makes up a large portion of the oil phase, and is a dispersion of a silicone sufactant (dimethicone copolyol) (10% by wt.) in cyclomethicone (Dow Corning 344 Fluid) (90% by wt.).
The mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol fluid is present in the composition, illustratively, in an amount of from about 4% to about 20% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. The unique aspect according to the present invention is that between 25-50% of the cyclomethicone in the dimethicone copolyol dispersion is replaced with at least one isoparaffin without any concomitant loss of properties, but with the added cost benefits associated with the use of much cheaper isoparaffins.
Various materials which can be incorporated in the water-based phase and in the oil-based phase are listed in International Patent Application Publication No. WO 97/06777, which is incorporated herein by reference, for example, emollients, humectants, antiseptics, preservatives, antioxidants, chelating agents, and U.V. absorbers.
While not limiting, in preferred embodiments the mixture of oil phase and alkoxylated, alkyl substituted siloxane surface active agent comprises from about 10% to about 30% by weight, of the total weight of the composition, and the combination of aqueous phase and coupling agents make up from about 70% to about 90% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.